Chinese Bean Soup (with Sichuan Peppercorns)

My knowledge of authentic Chinese cuisine is limited but that does not prevent me from experimenting with various Chinese ingredients. One of my favorites is sichuan peppercorns. I still remember my first sichuan meal: more spicy than I had expected but what a meal! Spicy beef short ribs, chicken with green beans, and bean sprouts in a spicy broth. Since that delightful induction, sichuan cuisine is now high up on my list of ethnic indulgences.

The two main elements of sichuan cuisine are chili peppers and peppercorns. Despite its name, the sichuan peppercorn itself is not spicy but imparts a tingling, numbing sensation on the lips and tongue. With quite a unique aroma and taste, these tiny pods have an overtone I can only describe as similar to the aroma of lime leaves.

If used in excess, the taste can be overpowering, especially in a mild bean soup such as this. When I first made this recipe, I added a teaspoon to the beans while they softened and a teaspoon to the mushrooms. Instead of a bean soup, it tuned out to be a peppercorn soup, with a taste that was almost medicinal. Ultimately, a single teaspoon was just enough to impart the desired level of sichuan flavor .





Chinese Bean Soup

Serves two to three

1/2 cup black eyed beans
1/2 pint cremini mushrooms, sliced
1 tsp black szechuan peppercorns
2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp grated fresh ginger
2 tbsp chilli oil
3 cups low sodium vegetable broth
1 egg

1 green chili, chopped (more or less; optional)

1. Wash and boil black eyed beans in two cups of water until fork tender. I prefer using the pressure cooker for this as it softens the peas in about 10 minutes, as opposed to traditional boiling which can take up to half an hour. Drain and set aside.
2. Heat a stock or other deep pot over medium heat. Toss mushrooms with garlic and oil. Saute with peppercorns for five minutes. Stir in vegetable broth and cooked beans. Cover, reduce heat slightly and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes.

3. Whisk egg separately, pour into soup, quickly stir to distribute and remove soup from heat.

4. Serve immediately with small pieces of chopped fresh green chilli.

Green Pea Croquettes with Chevre

In the spirit of change, we decided to become vegetarian. No red meat, no poultry but maybe seafood. This was more of a health related decision than anything else. I am not sure why we had not done this before. After all, we typically ate meat once a week (except during the holidays when, I admit, it gets a little out of control) and whenever we dined out. Do I think we will miss meat? Do I think it will be a difficult change? On the contrary, I accept this as a interesting culinary challenge. Another reason to be creative in the kitchen.

After the first two weeks as an official vegetarian, it became obvious that, just as was suspected, this was not going to be very difficult. First, we were doing it together. That way, we can keep each other in check, and offer support and a gentle reminder when the other (usually me) behaves like an omnivore. Second, vegetarian options are endless and adding just a few key ingredients can turn a boring or over-done dish into an exciting new dinner staple. Like these croquettes.

Croquettes are typically cylindrical or circular disks of food, breaded and deep fried. While mashed potatoes and meat are typically the base, other ingredients can be substituted. And while deep frying is rarely undertaken in my home, I have found that the same crunchiness is achieved by searing in a little oil on high heat. Here, green peas are the base and soft goat cheese adds a striking flavor and contrast to the crunchy exterior. If you like crab cakes, I think you will like these little green patties. This recipes makes four to five large cakes or about eight appetizer-sized ones.

Green Pea Croquettes with Chevre

Serves 3 to 4

1 1/2 cups frozen or fresh green peas

1/2 medium onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tbsp vegetable oil

2 tbsp part skimmed ricotta cheese

2 tbsp plain goat cheese plus more for serving

1 egg

1/2 tsp paprika

1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2/3 plain bread crumbs

1. Bring frozen peas to a boil in two cups of water for three minutes, drain and set aside.

2. Add one tablespoon vegetable oil to skillet over medium heat. Saute onion and garlic until soft, about three minutes, and add peas. Cook for another two minutes. Remove from heat, cool slightly, then puree in food processor or blender. Set aside.

3. In a large mixing bowl whisk together ricotta, chevre, egg, paprika, cayenne pepper, and salt. Combine well. Add pureed pea and onion mixture, parsley, and half of the breadcrumbs.

4. Set skillet over medium high heat and add about a quarter cup of vegetable oil. While oil heats, form pea mixture into 1 inch thick disks. Coat each side with reserved bread crumbs. Once oil has heated, add two or three patties at a time and cook for three minutes on each side.

Remove to paper towels to absorb excess oil. Serve with a wedge of chevre.

Beginning the year on a healthy note: with a fish soup

Standing on the corner of Canal and Baxter Streets in Chinatown, arguably New York's most famous ethnic enclave, I was taken back to my senior sociology class. In particular the section on how immigrants assimilate to life in the United States. New immigrants arrive here literally everyday with some never even bothering to learn English. Not because they chose not to but because the dynamics of the city's many ethnic enclaves make it easy to get by with just a basic knowledge of the language.

New York, as many other metropolises, would not be the attraction it is today if it were not for this influx of cultures. The mix of people, the music, the food, the ideologies all play a part in the attraction of the big apple. Imagining the city any other way is impossible. The constant influx of new immigrants, recently from Latin America and Asia in particular, has had an exceptional influence on the city's culinary sector. The restaurant scene alone is analogous to a mini world tour.

Last November, I chose to spend the Thanksgiving holiday in Queens; an easy decision not only because I get to spend time with relatives but it was also persimmon season! From August to about December, sidewalk fruit stands seem to glow with the bright orange of persimmons. Two varieties in particular, the fuyu and the hachiya. Me, I'm partial to the larger hachiya variety even though one must wait at least a week, sometimes more, for it to fully ripen. Otherwise, biting into an unripe hachiya is akin to eating a very green banana. Not a pleasant experience. The unpalatable aftertaste and sensation are due to the very high tannin content, especially the hachiya variety, which is only removed once the fruit is ripened. How can you tell when it is ripe? Simple. Ripe persimmons should be soft throughout while unripe ones are much firmer. Fuyu persimmons on the other hand are commonly classified as non astringent and are mostly ready to be eaten right from the vendor.

Food certainly is one reason I travel to New York. This visit was extra special. Oysters are particularly good this time of year and, true to form, my host had the freshest mini oyster bar awaiting us in the kitchen. He also shared this recipe with me; a common soup in Trinidad and Tobago's cuisine. As I have mentioned in previous posts, many of the country's cooks have their own variation of the national dishes. My mother and aunts all made this soup but each added their own special ingredient. I chose to post this version because of it relative simplicity. What better way to supplement our new year's resolutions regarding healthy eating than with a bowl of delicious, low fat Caribbean inspired soup. Here's to a happy and healthy new year!

Trinidad Fish Soup

Serves 4 to 5

1 two lb red snapper (sliced into 1" thick steaks)

3 limes

1 small onion

4 garlic cloves

2 springs fresh thyme

4 leaves shado-beni*

2 cups sweet potatoes, cubed

1 green banana, sliced into rounds (optional)

2 carrots, sliced

5 to 6 cups of water

2 whole scallions, chopped

1 large tomato, sliced into thin wedges

1. Squeeze two limes over fish, coat well and and drain off lime juice. Squeeze the juice of the additional lime and season with salt pepper,

2. In a food processor, grind onion, garlic, thyme, and shadon-beni. Add to fish, coating each side properly. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for thirty minutes.

3. Get a large stock pot over medium heat, add the carrots, sweet potatoes, and green banana. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the vegetables are fork tender. Season with salt and pepper. (Remember that the fish also has salt so use moderation here.) At this point, gently add the fish steaks to the pot. As soon as the fish is cooked through, (about 5 to 7 minutes depending on the thickness) add the chopped scallion and tomatoes wedges. Serve while hot with a slice of avocado (optional.)

* Shado-beni is found is most Trinidadian seasonings; every home cook uses it. It is sometimes referred to as Mexican cilantro and can be found in West Indian groceries. However, fresh cilantro can be substituted.

Butternut Squash Creme Brulee

Question. What is the first thing you thing about when you hear creme brulee? Is it, fancy dessert? Is it, caloric assault? Cholesterol overload? Impossible to make at home? The thought that goes through my mind when contemplating making  this dessert is whether I should buy a mini flame torch. The reason I never do is I am convinced that once I get it, it will remained packed up at the back of a cupboard somewhere, next to my mini chopper, my crepe pan and my condiment spoons, only to be found if, and when, we move. 

Now, having actually made the dessert for the first time, I have found that possibly the mini torch would have caramelized the sugar more evenly than under the broiler. That being said, the broiler is a good alternative. 

The two main ingredients in creme brulee are heavy cream and egg yolks, typically six to eight yolks for a recipe yielding four servings. Here, I used two yolks and,  in place of heavy cream,  I substituted low fat evaporated milk.  For the rich velvety texture characteristic of this dessert, using butternut squash puree was ideal. It has both body and a creamy texture; exactly what was needed here. You will notice the oven temperature starts out at 400 degrees fahrenheit and is then lowered to 350. This is crucial because the high temperature sets the dessert while the lower one allows it to continue cooking with being grainy. 

Have a happy and healthy thanksgiving!

Butternut Squash Creme Brulee

Serves four

12 oz low fat evaporated milk

1/3 cup sugar 

1/2 tsp freshly ground nutmeg

1/2 cup butternut squash puree*

2 egg yolks
4 tsp sugar

1. Set oven to 325 degrees F. 

2. Dissolve the milk and sugar in a sauce pan over medium heat. Add the freshly grated nutmeg and cook for 10 minutes. Do not bring to a boil. Remove 1/4 cup of mixture and set aside. To the remaining mixture, whisk in the butternut squash puree. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly so that when the eggs are added they will not immediately scramble. 

3. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks with the reserved milk and return to the pumpkin-milk mixture. Whisk thoroughly. 

4. Pass mixture through a sieve to remove any lumps and divide among four 4"ramekins. Bake in a water bath at 350 degrees for 45 to 50 minutes, until only the middle jiggles slightly when shook. .

5. Once cooked, the custard can be refrigerated between one and 24 hours before caramelizing the sugar crust. To do so, divide the remaining 4 tsp pf sugar evenly among the four ramekins, to completely cover the top of the custard. Caramelize using a blow torch or under the broiler for less than two minutes, monitoring closely to prevent charring. 

*To make butternut squash puree, peel, seed,  and cut a squash into cubes. Add to a large pot with about an inch  or two of water. Cover with lid and steam over medium high heat for 15 to 20 minutes until easily pierced with a knife. Puree in blender or food processor. 

Pumpkin Nut Loaf

Some of my friends (the ones who have been around longer than I have) tell me that as we get older,  we tend to find gratification in odd, simple and, sometimes, mundane things. Wine, a good cup of coffee, a crisp fall evening, highway driving- I have at least two friends in their fifties who enjoy highway driving, in particular, the freedom that the road signifies.  Using this criterion, I must be aging faster than I look because my latest diversion definitely falls into the category of odd, simple, and mundane. I am fascinated with squash. Gourds. You know, pumpkins. (Although, pumpkins are just one type of squash, if we have to get technical.) 

Little did  I know that all it would take to capture my interest in all things ( all edible things) squash, would be a single visit to a pumpkin patch. That fateful visit happened back in October in Wyoming, Minnesota. (Remember A road trip, a fresh pumpkin, and a pie?)  Now, a month later, squash as become for me what a blank canvas is to an artist: a medium of almost infinite possibilities.  Cakes, puddings, gnocchi, stews, breads, soups, and not forgetting the ever popular pie; you name it,  it can probably be prepared with one of the many varieties of squash. 

Throughout the year, farmer's markets as well as the produce sections of many neighborhood grocery stores seem to come alive with all varieties of squash. While most are used as decorations especially at this time of year, a large number is edible. A few of my favorites are acorn, kabocha, butternut, but I can't wait to get my hands on the fairy tale pumpkin. Just as its name suggests, a mature fairy tale pumpkin is shaped like Cinderella's coach in the way that its segments are distinguished by deep ridges. Not to be confused with the cinderella pumpkin which also has deep ridges but whose top is more noticeably flattened. 

Stay tuned for at least one more "gourdish" recipe. Maybe I will be able to find a fairy tale pumpkin. Or not. Either way, the next recipe will be a sweet delight. Meanwhile, enjoy this hearty pumpkin loaf made with homemade pumpkin puree.

Pumpkin Nut Loaf

Makes on   8' x 4' loaf

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour

2/3 cup all purpose flour

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp baking soda

1 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground nutmeg

1/4 tsp salt

1 egg plus 1 egg white

3/4 cup sugar

1/3 cup maple syrup

1/4 cup canola oil

1/4 cup skimmed milk

1 tsp freshly grated ginger

1 1/2 cups pumpkin puree (homemade or canned)* 

1/4 cup hazel nuts 

1/4 cup walnuts

1. Set oven to 350 degree F. Liberally grease and flour an 8' x 4' loaf pan and set aside. 

2. Coarsely chop the hazel nuts and pecans and toast in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove and set aside until ready to use. 

3. Combine  the flours, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt.  Set aside. 

4. In another mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, maple syrup, oil, and milk. Slowly whisk in pumpkin puree and add the freshly grated ginger. Combine the flour mixture into the wet ingredients in two batches. Finally, fold in the toasted chopped nuts. 

5. Pour the  batter into the prepared loaf pan and using a spatula smooth the top. Bake at 350 degrees  F for 1 hour and 15 minutes or until the top is cracked and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Cook loaf in the pan on a wire rack before serving. 

*Homemade pumpkin puree: Wash and cut a 1 lb pie pumpkin into eight to ten segments. Remove and discard the seeds and stringy interior. Place the "cleaned" segments in a large pot with 1 to 2 inches of water. Set over medium high heat for 30 minutes until the pulp becomes soft and capable of being scraped out with a spoon. Remove pulp and puree in blender. Pour back into pot over medium high heat, and cook for 20 to 30 minutes to remove most of the liquid.