Butternut Squash and Leek Gratin

When it comes to butternut squash, I tend to rotate the same set of recipes. Most frequently, it's soup. No soup is as creamy, sweet and savory, all at the same time, as a homemade butternut squash soup with a dollop of sour cream, or a swirl of balsamic syrup. Next on the list is butternut squash creme brulee. And finally, butternut squash bread pudding.

This is the first time, however, that I've make butternut squash gratin. A gratin is a simple, baked dish, similar to a casserole, with a golden, browned crust on the top. For this recipe, I've added onions and leeks to the squash base. A final topping of cheese and breadcrumbs, and a short time in the oven, and that's really all there is to it.

This is an easy recipe, the most laborious parts being peeling and cutting the squash, and washing the leeks. For those who haven't cooked with leeks before, you might be wondering what is so difficult about washing leeks. The problem with fresh leeks is that they are grown in sandy soil, which then finds it way into the many tight layers of the vegetable. This is why it is so important that you take the time to carefully wash them before cooking. (I found a quick tutorial of the process on YouTube.)

Having made this dish for the first time, I am confidant that it would become one of my regular butternut squash recipes. I'm even thinking that it would make a lovely side dish for our Thanksgiving dinner this year.

Butternut Squash and Leek Gratin
Serves 4 to 5

1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cubed
1 small onion, diced
1 medium leek, washed and chopped
3 tbsp vegetable oil
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
8 oz mozzarella, sliced or shredded
1 cup seasoned breadcrumbs
1 cup grated cheddar
2 tbsp chopped parsley (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 300^oF. Spray an 8" x 8" baking dish with cooking spray and set aside.
2. In a bamboo or stainless steel steamer, steam the squash until fork tender. I did it in two batches so that the cubes of squash cooked evenly.
3. In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat, and add the onions and rosemary sprigs. Cook until lightly browned on the edges, about 3 minutes. Add the chopped leeks. Continue to cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Cook until the leeks are softened, for an additional 4 to 5 minutes. Remove and discard the rosemary sprigs.
4. Combine the squash, onion-leek mixture, salt, and pepper. Transfer to the prepared baking dish. Layer the slices of mozzarella on the top, followed by the breadcrumbs, and finish with the grated cheddar. Baked at 300^oF for 25 to 20 minutes, until the top is golden brown. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve warm.

Lamb Dumplings with Tomato Sauce

The idea of making dumplings is no longer daunting for me. Thanks to ready made wonton skins. I admit: I've never made dumpling dough from scratch before but it seems like a lot of work. Although I am a proponent of certain traditional culinary methods, I'd pass on this one. Homemade bread I can bake fresh every day, and I prefer to grind and brew my own coffee (my husband even roasts our own beans now), and make my own tart and pie shells, but the idea of making dumpling from scratch... not so much. Wonton skins just make things so simple. And they are so versatile too. Having them on hand opens up many possibilities. I specially like that they make a good substitute for mini quiche and mini tart shells.

While when we think of dumplings, the ingredients that usually come to mind are asian inspired, these are filled with an all spice-seasoned lamb and carrot mixture. So for the dipping sauce I am also offering something slightly different: a chunky tomato puree. And if you find that the edges of these dumplings do not have that traditional wavy appearance, that's because it doesn't. I can never get that folding technique right.

Lamb Dumplings

Makes 2 dozens

1/2 lb lamb, minced

1/2 cup finely grated carrot

1/4 cup cilantro, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tsp all spice powder

1 tsp salt

24 wonton wrappers

1. Combine the first six ingredients; mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least thirty minutes.

2. To fill the dumplings: line a baking sheet with a tea cloth or paper towel. Place one tablespoon of filling mixture in the middle of one wonton wrapper. Dampen edges with water and bring the far half of the wonton skin up and over the filling towards you. Pinch edges slightly to form a seal. ( At this point, you can crimp or fold the edges to create the distinctive dumpling pleats, or not.) Place on the lined baking sheet and cover with another cloth or paper towel. Repeat with the remaining wonton skins.

3. Steam the dumplings in a bamboo or metal steamer for twenty minutes. (The water in the base of the steam should be slightly simmering, not boiling. )

Tomato Dipping Sauce

4 roma tomatoes

1 garlic clove, minces

2 tbsp chopped shallots

1/4 tsp all spice

1/4 tsp chili powder

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp cilantro

1/4 cup grated parmesan

Add olive oil to a skillet over medium high heat. Saute shallots and garlic together with all spice until softened. Add the tomatoes and cook for another 5 minutes until soften. Remove from heat and pour into a food processor together with cilantro and grated parmesan. Puree and serve warm with dumplings.

Simple Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus

Asparagus is one of the first vegetables available in spring. Crisp, mellow, and juicy. It makes a good side dish for easter brunch/lunch/dinner. Simply drizzle with olive oil, seaon with salt and pepper, and roast. But add a little prosciutto, and asparagus becomes everyone's favorite vegetable. In this recipe, I omitted any salt because the prosciutto is already considerably salty.

Simple Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus

Serves 4 to 5

1 bundle fresh asparagus

1 lb prosciutto

2 tbsp olive oil

1. Set oven to 450 degrees F.

2. Cut each slice of prosciutto in half, length-wise. Wrap one half slice of prosciutto around the middle of each asparagus spear, leaving one to two inches on both ends unwrapped. Drizzle with olive oil and spread evenly on a baking dish. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until the asparagus is tender.

Cooking for my father: a recipe for butternut squash curry

My father's visit, October 2009.

I'm a little late with posting because we had a visitor recently: my father. He was here for one very short, but lovely week. I don't see my family very often so, whenever it happens, I try to spend every minute that I can with them.

My father is the most emotionally collected person I know. He brings a sense of reason to every situation; nothing seems to faze him. And he always seems to be content with whatever he has and wherever he is at any given moment. Consequently, he is not the most adventurous type, preferring instead to keep his life simple and the way he has known it for years, in such ways as vacationing close to home, buying the same make of vehicle, and in his choice of clothing. It is the same with food. Trying to cook for him has always been a nervous endeavor on my part. My siblings and I think of him as a picky eater partly because he has always preferred the foods he grew up on. I think my mother and grandmother were the only people who got it right in his opinion. Or maybe he was just all too cautious about my sister's and my kitchen experiments. During my last trip to Trinidad, I remember preparing him a cup of tea the way he likes it: with sugar and milk (a legacy of the British) and yet, it wasn't good enough. And this was only tea, for crying out loud. Who gets tea wrong?

Needless to say, he took everyone by surprise with his recent interest in travel. Even more surprising was his changing attitude towards non-Caribbean food. His favorites are now Malaysian and Egyptian. Didn't see that coming. So, when he called to say that he would be visiting us this month, I was less nervous about cooking for him and more excited about having him try some of my new recipes and for him to understand and hopefully appreciate, my new approach to food. I had a couple recipes in mind - one I've made before (Maple Anise Braised Country Ribs) and a new one.

During the radio interview I had a couple weeks ago, Susan Berkson asked, "What would you cook with the vegetables available at the farmers' market this week?" I didn't hesitate for a second because I already had a plan for the season's most popular vegetable: squash. In particular, butternut squash - my favorite. Last year, I made Butternut Squash Creme Brulee practically every weekend for about two months. It has a smooth texture and is sweeter than most other squashes which worked well in that preparation. But this time, I was planning to make it into a curry, incorporating the flavors of onions, chili peppers and low fat coconut milk. More than that, however, I was planning to serve it to my father! Brave girl, that's me. I was thrilled that he enjoyed it and now that I know he is broadening his culinary horizons, I can't wait for his next visit to make some new recipes for him.

Butternut Squash Curry

Serves 4 to 5

1 butternut squash (peeled, seeded and cut into chunks)

3 tbsp olive oil

1 cup diced onion

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 tbsp curry powder*

1 1/2 cups low sodium vegetable broth

1 cup low fat coconut milk

4 -5 jalepenos, sliced (optional)

1/2 cup green onions, chopped

1. Place a large dutch oven or other deep pot over medium heat and add the olive oil, followed by onion, garlic, and half of the jalepenos. Cook for about five minutes until the vegetables soften. Stir often to prevent burning. Add the curry powder, stir to combine, and cook for an additional minute.

2. Add the chunks of butternut squash and turn to coat thoroughly with curry mixture. Add the vegetable broth and coconut milk, cover and cook for 20 to 30 minutes until the squash is soft but not mushy and the broth and coconut milk have made a thick sauce. Top with any leftover jalepenos and the green onions before serving.

*I use a curry powder blend common to the Caribbean, called Madras Curry. Other curry powders can also be used, such as the yellow curry blend sold in most spice or grocery stores.

Stuffed Eggplant

For the past month or so, eggplants are in abundance at the farmer's market's in the twin cities. They come in many different shapes, colors and sizes. And it follows that each variety works best in certain dishes. Most are some shade of purple but you can now find green and even white varieties. For roasting and making dips, I prefer the larger Italian and purple bell varieties. And for stuffing, I find that the small, dark purple, egg-shaped Indian variety, also known as baby eggplant, works best. Because of their size, they cook faster and throughly without being over done and make serving more manageable.

The stuffing in this recipe is essentially mashed cumin potatoes from the post Cumin (Geera) Potatoes. However, since potatoes take on the flavor of whatever is added to it so well, you can probably substitute garlic or sun-dried tomatoes for the scallions here.

Stuffed Baby Eggplant

Serves 4 to 5

8 to 10 baby eggplant

1 1/2 to 2 lbs potatoes, peeled and cubed

2 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground chili peppers (optional)

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 cup chopped scallions

1. Using a damp paper towel, wipe the eggplants clean. Place one eggplant on a cutting board and cut horizontally down the middle stopping half inch before the stem. Rotate the eggplant ninety degrees and make another horizontal cut down the middle. What you have now is a criss-cross cut down the eggplant, separating it into four segments connected at the base. Repeat this step for the remaining eggplants. Lightly brush the insides of each with olive oil. Set aside until ready to stuff.

2. Boil the potatoes in enough water to cover them, until fork tender. Drain and mash until smooth. Set aside

3. Heat a large skillet over medium high heat and add two tablespoons of olive oil. Add the minced garlic and cook for a minute or two until light golden. Add the cumin and cook for additional two minutes, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Add the mashed potatoes, stirring well to combine the seasonings. Turn off the heat and stir in the chopped scallions.

4. Fill each eggplant with two tablespoons of the potato mixture, cleaning up any that sticks on the outside.

5. Return the skillet or another large pot to medium high heat, add three tablespoon of olive oil to the bottom, and place the eggplant in single layer. If they can't fit in a single layer, do two batches. Cook on each side for three minutes.

What I learned from Michael Pollan (plus a recipe for Corn Mango Salsa)

On Thursdays, the farmer's market extends to Nicollet Mall in downtown Minneapolis. Although there are less vendors than the Lyndale location, there is still plenty of variety among the stalls. Last week, corn was on my mind. I figured better pick some up before the season's over.

Whenever I think of corn, I can 't help but be reminded of Michael Pollan's book In Defense of Food. Pollan describes in depth how corn rose from a weed to become one of the most successful species in the plant kingdom, with the help of industrial technology. He also provides good support for organic farming, highlighting that depending on the earth and the sun instead of synthetic fertilizers benefits not only our natural biologies but helps improve the condition of so many places on the planet that have been destroyed by industrial farming, or I should say ruthless industrial farming practices.

But the one point that really resonated with me was the comparison between Mexicans and North Americans. According to him, the descendants of the traditional Mayans today still refer to themselves as the corn people because of how dependent their diets were on corn. The startling fact, he pointed out, was that while the North American diet is not corn centric (in the sense that the real corn - kernels and cobs - don't typically play a featuring role on our dinner tables as it still does in Mexican meals) we have a much higher carbon thirteen (C-13) isotope concentration is our bodies which means that we consume more corn that the Mayans.

Let me attempt to paraphrase Pollan's explanation: Scientists are able to determine this by analyzing a small piece of our hair or a fingernail. Humans get carbon from the food we eat. In nature, there are two isotopes (different atoms of the same element having the same number of protons and electrons but a different number of neutrons) of carbon: carbon 12 and carbon 13. Most plants, through photosynthesis, use carbon 12, transforming it into food, in particular compounds that, at the molecular level, contain three carbon atoms. These plants are called C-3 plants. Corn, on the other hand, is a C-4 plant: it creates compounds with four atoms of carbon. While corn does use some C-12, it takes in more of the C-13 isotope. Hence, the higher concentration of c-13 to c-12 in a person's body is indicative of the amount of corn in his/her diet. (Whew! Hope that made sense.)

How can it be that North Americans consume more C-13 than Mexicans whose diets are more reflective of a relationship with corn? Don't we eat more wheat, more potatoes, more meat? The answer lies in corn's industrial role as the basis for most processed foods, as food for livestock, in most cereals, in high fructose corn syrup. While we have mostly moved away from corn in its natural state, we have simply moved towards corn-based products. Traces of corn can be found in the most unlikely of foods. Take crackers for example, the ones advertised as thin, whole grain and comes in a variety of flavors. They contain at least three ingredients derived, through highly complex chemical procedures, from corn. The most notable: high fructose corn syrup (I'll save my wrath on this most harmful of sweeteners for another post.)

While this post might give the impression that I am against the continued propagation of corn, I'm not. I like corn. Especially sweet, boiled, Minnesota corn. But the perception that this grain is so entrenched in the vast majority of foods found on supermarkets shelves makes me nauseated. Of course, corn's new role has much to do with economics and this will not change until there is concerted effort to move away from processed towards whole and natural foods. How about simply learning to enjoy foods in their natural state? In trying to do so, I am finding that some of my best meals are those simple ones.

Corn Mango Salsa

Serves 3 to 4

2 boiled ears of corn

1 large mango

1 large cucumber

1/2 cup chopped red onion

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

juice of 1 lime

1 tbsp sugar

1 tsp ground chilies

salt to taste

1. Carefully cut the corn kernels off the cob. Peel the mango and carefully slice off the flesh into cubes. Discard the seed. Peel and cube the cucumber. Place corn, mango, and cucumber in a large bowl along with the chopped onion, and cilantro.

2. Mix the lime juice, sugar, ground chilies, and salt. Pour unto the corn mixture. Toss well and serve.

Sauteed Spinach with Whole Garlic and Raisins

I'm excited to be staying in tonight. You see, for the past two weeks we had been eating out every night. As much I enjoy the Minneapolis restaurant scene and eating out in general- especially now that it's almost summer and outdoor dining is the rave- the comfort of my apartment and my little kitchen is more appealing right now. On the menu tonight: sauteed spinach with whole garlic and raisins. Not very alluring, I know, but very simple and delicious. Just what I want after a slew of large and involved meals. 

Sauteed Spinach with Whole Garlic and Raisins

Serves two to three

5 cups fresh spinach, washed and drained 

6 garlic cloves

1/4 cup dark raisins

salt to taste

grated parmesan 

1. In a skillet set over medium high heat, add two tablespoons vegetable oil. Add the garlic and cook for three to four minutes, until they turn lightly brown.

2.  Add the raisins, cook for another minute or so until they plump up. Now,  add the spinach. Cook until they wilt, season with enough salt to taste, and serve with grated parmesan on top. 

Green Pea Croquettes with Chevre

In the spirit of change, we decided to become vegetarian. No red meat, no poultry but maybe seafood. This was more of a health related decision than anything else. I am not sure why we had not done this before. After all, we typically ate meat once a week (except during the holidays when, I admit, it gets a little out of control) and whenever we dined out. Do I think we will miss meat? Do I think it will be a difficult change? On the contrary, I accept this as a interesting culinary challenge. Another reason to be creative in the kitchen.

After the first two weeks as an official vegetarian, it became obvious that, just as was suspected, this was not going to be very difficult. First, we were doing it together. That way, we can keep each other in check, and offer support and a gentle reminder when the other (usually me) behaves like an omnivore. Second, vegetarian options are endless and adding just a few key ingredients can turn a boring or over-done dish into an exciting new dinner staple. Like these croquettes.

Croquettes are typically cylindrical or circular disks of food, breaded and deep fried. While mashed potatoes and meat are typically the base, other ingredients can be substituted. And while deep frying is rarely undertaken in my home, I have found that the same crunchiness is achieved by searing in a little oil on high heat. Here, green peas are the base and soft goat cheese adds a striking flavor and contrast to the crunchy exterior. If you like crab cakes, I think you will like these little green patties. This recipes makes four to five large cakes or about eight appetizer-sized ones.

Green Pea Croquettes with Chevre

Serves 3 to 4

1 1/2 cups frozen or fresh green peas

1/2 medium onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tbsp vegetable oil

2 tbsp part skimmed ricotta cheese

2 tbsp plain goat cheese plus more for serving

1 egg

1/2 tsp paprika

1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2/3 plain bread crumbs

1. Bring frozen peas to a boil in two cups of water for three minutes, drain and set aside.

2. Add one tablespoon vegetable oil to skillet over medium heat. Saute onion and garlic until soft, about three minutes, and add peas. Cook for another two minutes. Remove from heat, cool slightly, then puree in food processor or blender. Set aside.

3. In a large mixing bowl whisk together ricotta, chevre, egg, paprika, cayenne pepper, and salt. Combine well. Add pureed pea and onion mixture, parsley, and half of the breadcrumbs.

4. Set skillet over medium high heat and add about a quarter cup of vegetable oil. While oil heats, form pea mixture into 1 inch thick disks. Coat each side with reserved bread crumbs. Once oil has heated, add two or three patties at a time and cook for three minutes on each side.

Remove to paper towels to absorb excess oil. Serve with a wedge of chevre.

Cauliflower Gratin

If there is one vegetable that I can do without, it would have to be the cauliflower. To me, the taste is not anything to write home about.  My fiance, on the other hand, likes all vegetables.

Whenever he tags along on  grocery  trips, he endeavors to pick up at least one of every type of vegetable in the produce section. Consequently every couple months or so, I have this large cauliflower in the fridge starring back at me until I decide to cook it. 

Typically, we would have it blanched served with different sauces  on the side or cooked in n indian curry, such as  aloo gobi (potatoes and cauliflower.)  Still, it wasn't something I craved. Then not too long ago, I prepared it au gratin, in a recipe that I typically reserve for potatoes or summer squash. What a difference preparation makes! I will admit, this way is much tastier than blanched and has opened up a new way for me of thinking about this vegetable. In fact, I look forward to experimenting with all the different and tasty ways in which this vegetable, that was once so low on my grocery list, can be prepared. The more I think of it, the more I'm grateful for my previous aversion to cauliflower; this way, my approach can be from a clean slate, or should I say, from a clean plate. 

Cauliflower Gratin

1 large cauliflower

1 tbsp olive oil

1/2 cup diced onion

1 large bay leaf

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1 cup vegetable stock

2 tbsp all purpose flour

1/4 tsp grated nutmeg

1/4 tsp tsp chilli powder

For topping

1/2 cup panko bread crumbs

1/2 cup grated cheese (of your choice; I like a mixture of mild cheddar and parmesan)

1/3 cup sliced, fresh scallions

1. Mix all the ingredients for the toppings and set aside.

2. Cut the cauliflower in half and remove the hard stem. Proceed to break apart florets into two to three inch pieces. Place about 1 cup of the florets into a food processor together with the diced onion and garlic cloves. Mince thoroughly. 

3. In a large skillet over medium high heat, add olive oil, minced mixture, bay leaf and dried thyme. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated and the mixture now appears dry and crumbly. Also, remember to stir frequently to prevent burning. Add the vegetable stock and cook for an additional 4 to 5 minutes. At this point, thoroughly whisk in the flour and nutmeg,  and remove the pan from over the heat. 

4. Steam the remaining cauliflower in a bamboo or metal steamer for three to four minutes, until slightly fork tender but not too soft. Toss steamed cauliflower pieces and onion-cauliflower mixture in a large bowl. Pour into a baking dish and top with panko topping. Bake at 400 degrees F for 20 to 25 minutes. 

Roasted Mushrooms with Shallot Chilli Oil

Clockwise from right: shiitaki, enoki, button, and oyster mushrooms

It all started a month ago. We had just sat down at one of our favorite (athentic) chinese restaurants and was in the middle of giving our order to the waitress. Hot and sour szechuan soup, ma po tofu, pea-tips in garlic sauce. "Oh, I'm sorry," she said to me in a hushed voice, "the pea-tips are not great today, wait until September when they are good and mature." Disappointment. Disappointed because those soft, leafy greens were the reason I cajoled my fiance to make the twenty minute trip to Richfield. 

On the drive home, we decided that in a month we would make a trip to the asian supermarket for some of those mature pea-tips. Taking the waitress' words to heart, last Sunday was the day we designated for the asian market. All month I had been looking forward to this day, which turned out to be a bleak and raining day. I was not fazed; that evening we were going to dine on crisp pea tips sauted with garlic and drizzled with a little  olive oil. 

So you can only imagine my disappointment at the sparse vegetable selection that awaited us. (Sparse is putting it subtly.) The vegetable shelves were practically bare, the pea-tips leaving much to be desired. It took me a few moments to contain my disappointment and make the most of the circumstances. We were already there, why not take this opportunity to stock up on some other asian ingredients such as sauces and our favorite roasted, brown rice tea. We eventually left with bottles of ponzu, various teas and  an assortment of mushrooms, the one vegetable that was fresh and plentiful that day.  

Roasted mushroom medley

6 oz enoki mushrooms

6 oz shiitake mushrooms

6 oz oyster mushrooms 

6 oz button mushrooms, slices

1/4 cup ponzu

2 - 3 tbsp chilli oil (depending on desired level of heat)

1 shallot, thinly sliced

1. With a damp paper towel or tea cloth, clean mushrooms lightly to remove any dirt. 

2. Toss with ponzu. Evenly spread the mushrooms onto a baking sheet and broil in the middle of the oven for 5 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside.

3. Meanwhile in a hot skillet over medium heat, (it is important to heat the skillet before adding the oil) add the chilli oil and shallots. Cook shallots for 1 minute, without stirring, just long enough to infuse the oil with its flavor. 

4. Pour hot oil and shallots over mushroom. Serve immediately.